The symptoms and treatment of mountain sickness

This article is from the DENALI National Park Mountaineering website in the United States and provides documentation for climbing climbers on Mt. McKinley (6194M). This document is like a condensed mountaineering Bible. It is mentioned in all mountaineering-related matters. The version of the National Park Stand is of interest to start from here. He had read before McKinney and translated the relevant part of Takayama disease to provide a reference for domestic mountain friends. I hope everyone can have a deeper understanding of Takayama disease.
In addition, this site contains a number of articles published by senior Shanyou Su Wenzheng doctors.


Alpine Disease Profile Altitude Illness Translator: Lu Changhua

Acute mountain sickness (AMS), high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), and high altitude cerebral edem (HACE) are all diseases that cannot be accommodated by the sudden rise in altitude. Many examples of them are accompanied by people. People only know that the oxygen-deficient environment is a common feature, but the pathogenic mechanism is still unclear. Low temperature has an additive effect on alpine disease, especially pulmonary edema. *Note 1

General symptoms: (more detailed symptoms are explained below)

Acute mountain sickness AMS
Headache, lack of appetite, dizziness, tiredness, irritability, weakness, nausea, unconsciousness, wanting to sleep
High altitude pulmonary edema HAPE
Shortness of breath, increased breathing, rapid heartbeat, weakness, "grilling" in the lungs, dry cough, gradual loss of consciousness until death
Alpine brain edema HACE
Headache, vomiting, paralysis, drowsiness, continued deterioration, coma, and death

Explanation:

AMS occurs at heights above 2400M. Symptoms appear within a few hours of rising heights. Symptoms may deteriorate rapidly and then slowly improve. After the AMS occurs, the rate of increase should be slowed or the climb should be stopped. The patient should be observed for care to prevent the development of severe HACE and HAPE. Stopping activities, resting, and drinking more water are the best ways to dispose of AMS. Aspirin or Pratumol can treat headaches in AMS, while Diamox can accelerate height adjustment and prevent AMS in advance. Many of the teams that had met with AMS could finish the climb last time because they dropped 600-1000 meters in height and rested for 1-2 days to adapt and continue climbing. All mountain diseases are the same. Once it happens, the time for climbing up is bound to be delayed.

HAPE rarely occurs below 2750M. Symptoms usually occur after a rapid climb. Excessive fatigue and coldness are two other suspects of HAPE. Symptoms of shortness of breath, increased breathing, rapid heartbeat, weakness, and "difficulty in the lungs" "Sounds, dry coughs, etc., followed by coughing out saliva with blood bubbles, usually with less severe fever, heartbeat about 90-130, breathing at the time of rest is still 20-40 times / min frequency, lips, The nails turn blue.

Once suspect or confirmed to be HAPE, the team must immediately withdraw. This is the only effective treatment. Oxygen, although effective in relieving symptoms, does not improve the patient's condition. Even a pure oxygen breath of 12-36 hours cannot relieve the water in the lungs. Therefore, do not rely on any medicine or oxygen, and only make non-stop withdrawals. Even if it is bad weather or if the night falls, it doesn't matter, because it's almost impossible to quit. As long as the drop is even 300-500 meters, there are often miraculous results. Unless it has been confirmed that the patient has recovered completely, the patient must still be taken to the hospital. During the withdrawal process, patients must be assisted as much as possible to reduce the burden on the patient so as not to worsen the condition.

HACE is less common and usually occurs below 3600M. Symptoms include steps such as drunkenness, severe headache, and vomiting. Sometimes patients experience hallucinations, behaviors become irrational, and even simple work can't be done. Drowsiness, loss of consciousness, coma, and death. HACE progresses faster than HAPE, so only rapid withdrawal can save the patient's life.

The ataxia caused by alpine brain edema can be identified by a simple coordination test: the heel touches the tip of the toe and draws a straight line. Ask the patient to walk along the straight heel and touch the tip of the toe. If this is not possible, It is brain edema. Dexamethasone (an adrenocortical steroid, the drug name DECADRON) * Note 2, in the early treatment of cerebral edema treatment, the general use of oral administration of 4mg every four hours, but still with the patient to use the next drop. *Note 3

in conclusion

At present, medicine cannot predict who will have high mountain disease. Physical health has no protective effect on high mountain disease. It is necessary to stay at a height of 3,000 to 2500-3000M for 1-2 nights. In the event of any kind of mountain disease, rapid withdrawal is the best treatment; the rate of recovery of early withdrawal can reach 100%. Trying to avoid getting alpine disease is the most important thing. The climber must be familiar with the relevant knowledge and review his situation at any time, keeping in mind the high-altitude climbing iron law: “climb high and sleep low”*4; stop if there are symptoms of AMS rise. The team members should observe each other, pay attention to small details, and do not ignore the team members' complaints and treat these diseases with care.

END

Note 1: The National Geographic Channel has seen: Recent studies in the Alps have shown that mountain sickness appears to be related to individual physique, and some people are difficult to adapt to heights, but are susceptible to mountain sickness, and some people do not, the scientist’s next goal. It is to find out its genetic mechanism.
Note 2: Detailed description of adrenocortical steroids: http://139.175.251.18/pediatric/drug/cortico.htm
Note 3: Detailed drug use requires consultation with a professional physician. This article is only a translation, not prescription 4: carry high and sleep low. This type of climbing is usually applied to ice and mountain climbing. Although Taiwan does not need this method of climbing, it should still experience it. Deliberately slowing the pace of climbing and using moderate labor to accelerate the body's spirit of adaptation.

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