The climber climbs under the protection given by the protection person through the climbing rope. One end of the climbing rope is connected with an iron lock or a belt directly connected to the climber's waist, and the other end passes through the iron lock and the descender connected with the belt on the protector's waist, and passes through one or more fixed security in the middle. Iron lock on the fulcrum. The protector keeps giving the rope (or the rope) as the climber rises. When the climber misses, tighten the rope to stop the fall. When a sudden fall occurs, the impact force is very large. It is difficult to hold the rope directly. The impact force is mainly offset by the friction force of the rope and the iron lock and the descender. Because there is a lot of friction on the protection fulcrum, people with less weight can protect those with heavier weight. The form of protection is generally divided into the following two types according to the relative position of the protection fulcrum:
Protection above: The protection of the fulcrum above the climber. As the climber ascends, the protector continues to collect the rope so that the climber does not leave any rope on his chest, but he must not pull too tightly so as not to affect the climber's actions. This should be especially noticed when he climbs up the elevation. There is no special requirement for the climber to protect the climber. It is safer to have a smaller impact when he crashes. When using the lower protection, the equipment used generally has seat belts, iron locks and descenders. When the protector collects the rope, he should pay attention to holding a rope behind the descender at any time (or grasping the ropes on both ends of the descender), and it is difficult to stop falling only by grasping the rope in front of the descender.
Protection below: The protection of the fulcrum is located below the climber. There is no above-mentioned preset protection point. Only during the ascendant's ascension, the guard rope is continuously put into the iron lock on the way to the security fulcrum. This is the only feasible protection method for leading climbers. It is practical and it is a protection method prescribed in international competitions. However, this method of protection requires the climber to hunt and protect himself, and in the event of a fall, it has a large fall distance and strong impact and is therefore generally used by skilled persons.
Climbing technology
Rock climbing should have good physical conditions, but it is more important to have skilled techniques. Learning and climbing techniques are very practical and must be practiced in constant climbing. If there are skilled people who can guide them, they will be able to get twice the result with half the effort.
Method: The basic purpose of climbing in a hand is to move the body upwards and close to the rock wall. The fulcrum on the rock wall has many shapes, and there are dozens of common types. The climber should be familiar with the shape of these fulcrums, knowing where to grip the different fulcrums, and how to use force. According to the position and direction of the protrusion (depression) on the fulcrum, there are methods such as squeezing, pinching, pulling, squeezing, gripping, and pushing. But don't stick with it. There can be multiple grasping methods for the same fulcrum. Like a kind of fulcrum where there is a small platform above a circle, the general situation is to put a finger on it and pull it down vertically, but in order to make the body close to the rock wall, you can The whole pinch, flat pull. Another example is when sometimes two hands are needed to catch the same pivot point, the first hand can give up the best grip and give it to the back hand to avoid the trouble of changing hands. When grasping the fulcrum, especially when the horizontal force is applied, the position of the arm should be at the bottom, and the horizontal friction force should be increased by the downward pulling force; to fully use the strength of the thumb, try to put the thumb on the fulcrum, for the common horizontal shallow groove The fulcrum can twist the thumb, buckle one side of the belly into the flat slot, or place it on the back of the index finger and the middle finger, which can increase the strength. The strength of the fingers in the climb is very important, and usually can be practiced by means of brace, pull-ups, finger-pulling pull-ups, and pinching heavy objects. Now some foreign experts have been able to reach the level of strength of a single leader. When climbing a longer route, you can choose to easily rest with both hands. In the rest area, there should be no elevation or elevation angle, and if there is a large fulcrum on the hand, the feet should be stabilizing the fulcrum when resting, and the arms should be straightened (it is difficult to get a rest when bending). The upper body is backwards, but the waist must be Before the top, so that the lower body close to the rock wall, the weight pressed to the feet, in order to reduce the burden on the arm, do activities, fingers, shake hands and relax, and wipe some magnesium powder to avoid slipping.
Footwork: To reach a certain level of climbing, you must learn to use your legs and feet. The leg's weight-bearing ability and explosiveness are great, and its endurance is strong. In order to make full use of leg and leg strength, it is necessary to climb. Rock climbing wears special rock-climbing shoes. The soles are made of hard rubber. The forefoot is thicker, the body is made of tough leather, the toes are pointed, and the soles have great friction. Put on this kind of shoes, the foot can step on the fulcrum that is narrow to less than one centimeter wide can support the weight of the body steadily. When buying this kind of shoes, we must pay attention to it, we must not buy big ones. As long as you can wear it, the big toe is squatted inside and cannot be straightened. The tighter the shoe is, the more stable it is when it is applied. Some players even have to use fast hooks on the back of the shoes to put hard feet into the game. Novices are often too big to buy shoes. After a period of time, they will feel that their feet are too loose to tread. Only one foot can touch the fulcrum: the front of the shoe is sharp; the inner edge of the toe (the big toe); the outer edge of the toe (the tip of the four toes) and the heel tip (used mainly for hanging over the roof) Feet), and can only step into the width of a finger or so, not too much, for example, put the entire foot up, in order to make the foot in the case of the load can be left and right rotation movement, the implementation of the foot, swivel and other movements. Changing the foot is a basic technical move that is often used in climbing. It is common for some beginner friends to change their feet when they change their feet and swiftly jump. The back foot accurately falls on the fulcrum of the forefeet. It looks very neat, but it is actually wrong because it makes the fingers hard Larger, on the other hand, causes physical imbalances, and more importantly, it is not possible to change the foot in this way when the foot is high. The correct method is to ensure stability and not increase the burden on the hand. Take the example of changing from the right foot to the left foot. First, mention the left foot above the right foot and the right foot with the foot on the far right side of the fulcrum as the counterclockwise axis (to the Look down) Turn and empty the left side of the fulcrum, the weight is still on the right foot, the left foot cuts in from above, and the foot points, the right foot must be pulled out, and the weight transitions to the left foot. The action used to get used to it, just like the oil on the soles of your feet. The right foot slipped out of the fulcrum, and the left foot slipped in at the same time. The weight was always borne by your feet. The hand was only used to adjust the balance. In addition to supporting weight during the climbing process, both feet are also used to maintain body balance. The foot does not always have to step on the fulcrum. Sometimes one leg should be suspended from the air to adjust the position of the body's center of gravity, so that the weight can be steadily transmitted to the other foot.
Focus: When climbing, you should clearly recognize the position of your center of gravity and flexibly control the movement of your center of gravity. The main purpose of moving the center of gravity is to reduce the load on the hands and keep the body in balance. At the beginning of school, most of the movements were blind, and I didn't know the movements. I just wanted to raise the height. In fact, it is best for beginners not to rush to climb. First, I would do a translation exercise for a period of time, that is, move horizontally from one side of the rock wall to another. Side, experience the basic skills such as center of gravity, balance, use of hands and feet. In the most basic three fixed points, when one hand changes points, the center of gravity is generally moved to the opposite side, so that the hand has no load before leaving the original fulcrum, and can easily be shot. When moving laterally, the center of gravity should be lowered so that the hands are hung on the fulcrum rather than trying to pull the fulcrum. Under normal circumstances, you should step on your feet and reach out to the next point instead of stepping on your feet and pulling your body upwards. It is important to note that using the power of the leg to lift the center of gravity upwards, the hand only maintains balance when moving upwards. It is generally considered that the body should be as close as possible to the rock wall. This is true, but it is common for some masters to often physically far away from the rock wall. This is because their common preparatory actions such as lateral pull, hands and feet, and balancing the body need to work with rocks. There is room between the walls, just the moment the body rises, and the body is attached to the rock face. Usually the center of gravity adjustment is mainly achieved by pushing and pulling the waist and leg balance. The waist is the center of the human body. Its movement directly moves the center of gravity. Larger movements often form some very beautiful movements. Stretching the legs horizontally and using the weight of the legs to balance the body is also a common practice.
Side-pull: Side-pull is a very important technical movement. It can greatly save upper limb strength. Some of the original fulcrum points can be easily achieved, especially when used in over-high elevations. The basic technical point is the body's lateral rock wall, with the body's opposite hand and foot touching the rock wall. The other leg is straightened to regulate body balance. The body is lifted by one leg and the upper fulcrum is grasped. Take the left hand to grasp the fulcrum, for example, the body is facing left.
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